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BUILDING A DIRT ROD BY JENSON PERRY START TO FINISH

Where to start so much to do

So here is where Jenson our latest member to the Prime racing fold will build a Dirt Rod from start to finish showing how and what he is doing. Jenson is 17 and will be racing this car in the points championship next season. I will be guiding him through the process teaching him along the way so he can maintain and repair the car if, no I mean when he ends up in the wall or upside down. He will be using new kit from Banger kit mainly and will be following rules from the Stansted Raceway web site. We will post on here as and when the car is stripped and build the car in step by step pic's .

So here we start with a Ford Focus 1.6 2005. It has been scrapped due to Issues with ABS (not needed) and emission failure due to LAMBDA sensor failure (not needed) apart from that the car will be good to race. So check back here for updates and see how it progresses over the coming weeks.




, All questions are welcome and will answer as best we can in a timely manner just click this link. please bare in mind that we do this as a hobby not a full time job.We also encourage the kids to do all the jobs that they are safe doing .

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Get cracking lad !!! start by stripping the cars interia

100,000 miles of worn interia

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Remove the seats and carpets with correct tools, Save the nsf and rear bench as foam will come in handy later. Remove headlining and be careful yanking that rubber tube from the rear washers that'll hurt when it goes ping. !!!

Carpets all gone

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Remove carpets and any sound deadening foam as this is flammable.Be careful not to cut important wiring.Also at this point ensure battery is disconnected and unplug airbag ECU to prevent accidental operation. 

Door cards

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Remove all the door cards but keep window switches as the windows stay in at this point to keep car dry. Pull the door rubbers off as these are flammable. 

Rear seats

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Remove the rear bench seats being careful not to damage fuel pump wiring harness, You may still need to move car and it's easier to move it under its own power. Apparently it's also time for a bottle of zesty refreshing drink

Seat belts

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Remove seats belts and all pretensioners. Keep the belts as these will be used to strap up doors later on. Remove all that gooey stuff from the doors that hold the plastic sheeting on. Flatten any sharp bits of metal off save cutting yourself later while working or when you are quick exit 

?????????

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Cant remember this bit of the build at this time Jenson, But apparently its time to spray corner plates, Maybe he is getting excited I think . Just to be on the safe side give it a start to make sure nothing has been damaged while working, Easier to locate a fault now rather than later

2nd day of stripping bit by bit

Headlamps

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Today quite at work so Jenson has started to remove headlamps and tie or remove wiring harness, indicators fogs lamps also get removed.

The boot

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Ok so he needs to clear the boot bit full of junk typical teenagers boot I think.Wiper motor in tailgate to, trims rubbers and boot struts to go as well.

Rear lamps

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Rear lamps off seals and rubbers to .Tie or remove the wiring. You need to leave high level brake light in so as Jenson prematurely brakes and finds out what colour adrenaline is we'll have half a chance of voiding him. 

Rear seat

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Rear seat saved to remove foam and centre belt for use later.

Inside

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Getting to look a little like a racecar now wont be long now till the stripping starts to move into the  building. Thats where Jenson goes through a steep learning curve.

Their back

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Told him once not time for the corner plates!!! They do look good though nice colour

3rd day

Exhaust

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Remove exhaust leaving one box or catalyst in place to help retain back pressure. Insure the rest of the exhaust is supported away from ground.

LAMBDA sensors

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The LAMBDA sensor before catalyst is required to help engine run well on standard injection .The 2nd sensor is a diagnostic sensor and not required and can be removed

Arch liners

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Remove these as they will only fall off and can rip brake pipes off also stop mud collecting be sure to secure wires and pipes behind them away from road wheels

Washer bottle

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This is where the wash wiper bottle is located,Not needed so get rid of it

Underside

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Once the exhaust has been removed remove heat shields, loose plastics trims and remove excess fuel from tank also remove filler cap and put holes in tank so fumes can escape, Remember this will immobilize the car.Maybe a job when the cage and tank is in.

NO NO NO

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O apparently they need a 2nd coat he will be gutted when he welds them on and it burns that shiney paint.

Time to start putting this race car together

H frame roll cage

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H frame roll cage ready for a coat of paint in black Hammerite to keep it rust free. This will add strength to chassis and protect the driver from impact and roll overs.  This pallet also had the door plates tanks. This is what Jenson has been waiting for !!!.

Fitting H frame in

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After the paint has dried the side impact arms are fitted, (These are a adjustable to fit other cars). The H frame is fitted to the floor once the driving position is established as seat has to fixed to it. The H frame is fitted to the floor with 16 mm stud bolts and nuts with square plate washer and the same on roof. Then it's tightened top and bottom till the roof,frame and floor are all one.

Fuel tank and battery tray

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OK so some people, The sensible ones would keep these black as soon they will be covered in mud or if unlucky a bit of blood and guts. But this is Jenson so they are Orange. Tank held on with 16 mm bolts and holds no more than 2 gallons. Tank has 3 pipes one outlet one return and a breather this will be air tight with a one way valve on the breather. Battery tray holds battery I think This will also have a rubber mat across it to stop acid spills in the event on a roll over, As I said it's Jenson it will roll over at some point. 

Emergency cut off switch

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This is arguably the most important piece of kit. This is used by the Marshall's in the event of an accident. If your unconscious,hurt or unable to shut your car off then they will need to do this for you. Once wired up and alternator is disconnected this will shut fuel pump off and shut down engine. This is wired to the earth side of battery. This must work at all times. 

Rear of switch

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The earth on battery goes directly to the switch i prefer to run a separate earth directly to the body on a clean fresh bit of metal like an old seat belt mount. This will ensure it works whilst getting the harshest of treatment. Bad earth car cuts out and Jenson becomes a sitting duck !  If I come round the corner and see him it may not end well

Floor plate

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So the floor plate goes between your seat and the pedals on the floor strangely. This will stop the floor from rising or the pedals moving forward if Jenson ends up, no when Jenson ends up buried in the wall. It will happen at some point I know trust me. Jenson has  now mixed sand with the black paint so this isn't so slippery getting in and out. The eyelet will hold the crouch strap. 

Start working on the fueling

Fuel cut off

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In case of an fuel leak this shut off valve located in arms reach of driver will ensure that if a pipe splits that the fuel can be stopped flowing to pump. There is a Hi-flow filter up stream of this to ensure a smooth delivery. Pay attention to the orange cable ties.

There is a return pipe that is one single length running from the return on fuel rail and goes straight to the new very orange tank. This is visable just in the bottom left corner of pic under the battery cable.

Fuel pump

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Hi pressure fuel pump. This baby delivers 4 bar pressure to the fuel rail forcing fuel into the engine. Notice the orange strap!!! The pump has seat belt round it to help absorb the vibration. Pipes are run through cable ties but left loose so pipes can float and move in the event of a crash this will prevent pipes being pulled off pump and tank.

Fuel line

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The original fuel lines are now removed and blanked, The old fuel pump is disconnected from the old cut off switch and also unplugged from tank where it lives that is all now redundant. The new fuel line is 8 mm thick wall pipe designed for this job.

The spray job Prime Racing Blue

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The windows are still in and the car gets it's first coat of paint. looking nice and shiny. The next stage will be to bolt her shut 

Where did that bolt come through

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Hanging upside down with a ECU balanced on his chin putting a plate on the back of the A post to secure door bar. How did he get in that position.

Door plates,seat belt pillars and bolt her shut

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So she it bolted shut, She runs under her own steam it's almost there just needs a tidy up and add the Decals to make her look pretty

TYRE FLAPS to

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flaps fitted to the outside of your tyres protect your sidewalls from penetration, also these are fitted with tubes which stop the tyre rolling off the rim and allow you to run a lot lower pressures (they are  top secret)

MIXING FUELS

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Mixing fuel well you need to use standard petrol from a pump but Tesco's do 99 RON unleaded and then there this Octane booster stuff you can buy from Halfords. it works !!!!

SPARES

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JOB DONE LETS GO CRASHING THEN

IT'S DONE FINISHED COMPLETE !!!

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Well done Jenson it's done, Now it's time to race it. Your stuff just got very real. Lets try and get it trough the season make it last. You owe it to the stripes!!!

Poser

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I hope you look after it better than you looked after mine

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Half way there Jenson long way to go

All the work carried out on this car so far is by Jenson Perry I've have guided him in what to do but on the whole its all his work. Not  a lot of lads his age can say they have done this. So next its fueling and get the car running as it would on the track. Lets see how he copes with that I'll keep the fire extinguishers on standby!!!